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BEEF: ALI WONG, STEVEN YEUN - A REVIEW *SPOILERS*

Revenge is a dish best served RAW... 


Prepare for a wild ride of entertaining chaos and uproarious dialogue in the Netflix series that showcases the life-affirming feud between two drivers fueled by rage. It's a rare delicacy that serves up a delightful blend of laughter and exhilaration.


The beef at the heart of the story is not a luxurious wagyu steak or a delectable Korean barbecue. Successful Calabasas lifestyle entrepreneur Amy (Ali Wong) might indulge in such culinary delights during a lackluster date-night with her incredibly attractive husband (Joseph Lee). On the other hand, struggling building contractor Danny (Steven Yeun) grills his modest Korean barbecue outside his humble LA apartment building. But the beef that truly matters lies between Amy and Danny, sparked by a road-rage incident in a parking lot that spirals into a prolonged and strangely life-altering feud. Amy's colossal SUV becomes an obsession akin to Moby Dick.


Under normal circumstances, individuals like Danny and Amy would have no reason to cross paths. Sure, they both reside in Los Angeles and share an East Asian background, but Amy's world revolves around glamorous gallery launches, her meticulously designed show-home, and striking multimillion-dollar deals. Meanwhile, Danny finds solace in Burger King chicken sandwiches, small-scale scams, and his Korean church band. Amy would likely never consider hiring someone like Danny, especially given his lackluster Yelp reviews.


"Beef" takes time to forge an emotional connection, much like its characters, and for good reason. The script defies easy categorization—it's not quite comedy, not quite drama. It transcends the typical low-energy LA dramedies that streaming services have churned out as mass exports. Instead, it delves into dark, existential themes as cynical individuals confront their deep-rooted sadness. While peppered with humorous dialogue, this incarnation of "Beef" defies conventional light entertainment. Yet, when marinated in creator Lee Sung Jin's unique perspective and tenderized by unexpected plot twists, it becomes a delicacy worth savoring.


If you're already familiar with the talents of Ali Wong and Steven Yeun, the exceptional quality of "Beef" will come as no surprise. Yeun, known for his roles in "The Walking Dead" and acclaimed films like "Nope" and "Minari," has garnered recognition in both the United States and South Korea. Wong, the raunchy and feminist stand-up comedian, is a perfect fit for her role as Amy—a woman whose secret stress relief involves unconventional methods. While they have collaborated previously on the animated series "Tuca & Bertie," "Beef" marks a project that demands their personal investment like never before.


"Beef" proudly carries the distinct mark of A24, the achingly hip indie entertainment company. It boasts moments of psychedelic-induced soul-swapping enlightenment, reminiscent of A24's recent Oscar-winning film "Everything Everywhere All at Once." However, the show's brand of existential longing transcends mere quirkiness, evoking a more Herzogian sense of angst. Episode titles like "The Rapture of Being Alive" and "The Birds Don't Sing, They Screech in Pain" are accompanied by original paintings from artist and former Vice TV contributor David Choe, who also appears in the series as Danny's criminally inclined cousin Isaac. Undoubtedly, merchandise inspired by "Beef" will soon join the coveted line of A24 collectibles.


Similar to A24's other productions, "Beef" takes strides in onscreen representation, presenting a refreshing take on underrepresented individuals. It's not just about Asian American representation—though that is significant—it's about showcasing extremely angry people, a demographic we rarely see on television. In a time when therapy and balance are encouraged, the expectation is to process emotions in healthy and moderate ways. This expectation is even more pronounced within cultures stereotyped as Zen, residing in the wellness-centered heartlands of Southern California. "I'm so sick of smiling, dude," laments Danny at one point. However, they both recognize that any slip in their carefully crafted masks will be captured by someone's Ring video doorbell, posted on Nextdoor, and endlessly shared on social media.


Despite their differences, Amy and Danny are driven by an irresistible urge to rebel against this self-imposed, 24/7 surveillance. And if you think their penchant for petty grievances and questionable decision-making is established early on, just wait until you witness their later escapades. Amidst the entertaining chaos, "Beef" daringly suggests that embracing full-throttle rage might be the most direct path to rediscovering the exhilaration of feeling alive—regardless of what your therapist might advise.

 

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